>destroy the block paving with the lateral displacement of the paving blocks mainly due to power steering
Yeah, I've had a few cement mixers literally "plow" the pavement and even the clay base on construction jobs.
>38mm
That's the standard thickness here for pathway or light vehicle traffic pavers. No one puts a quality sub base under them, though. Then again, they don't have 10-wheelers lumbering around their yard.
In my case, the sub base is super-dense and approaching 300mm in the load-bearing areas. It stands the heavy traffic well without any damage whatsoever. I'm considering the pavers as a decorative veneer but the intent is to keep the current sub base intact and undisturbed as much as possible. The problem is that I don't have but about 50mm MAXIMUM to work with if I am to maintain a proper grade/elevation for drainage.
>they would certainly be crushed or crack if it was semi dry mixture
The dry-mix type sold here are far too brittle for other than light-duty use. That's why I'm considering pouring my own using high-strength wet mix. 38mm seems too thin. 50mm obviously better.
In the end, I'm striking a balance. If some are crushed, I would still own the forms so they could be replaced.
>feed back off the companies installing the underground heating is don't bother its not cost effective
It always boils down to soil type and water table. If you're in an area with sandy soil and a high water table like many areas here in the southeastern US, then it can be cost-effective (unless you p##s away all your money on engineers and studies beforehand). Many types of installations require a good-sized piece of property as well, either for the field or boring equipment access. I think Gimp was looking into doing the bore hole method there in the UK a few years back but gave up the idea due to the lack of accessable space to drill the wells.
