Author Topic: A man's man! Bigtime.  (Read 25260 times)

grnidone

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Re: A man's man! Bigtime.
« Reply #60 on: February 07, 2024, 06:16:53 PM »
Funny thing about the V scale...which I learned the hard way when learning how to climb.

It isn't exactly mathematical.

So, a 5.5 is easier than a 5.12. I was trying to teach myself how to climb and I kept wondering what I was doing wrong because I wasn't able to even come close to climbing at all.

Because I went to the smaller number.

5.10 is harder than 5.9.  But then a 5.9 is more difficult than a 5.6. Because ... ??


ergophobe

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Re: A man's man! Bigtime.
« Reply #61 on: February 07, 2024, 09:19:29 PM »
That's actually the Yosemite Decimal Scale (YDS). And no, it isn't mathematical. Think like software versions. With software, version 3.2.10 is a higher version than 3.2.9.

A rating as three parts, the Roman numeral (the "grade"), the Arabic numeral before the decimal point (the "class") and the part after the decimal point (the difficulty of the hardest section of free climbing). In theory, there was going to be 6.0, 6.1, etc to design, but that didn't catch on and people use the A0-A5 ratings instead. So the full rating for a long route might be something like The Nose V 5.13b or 5.9 A2.


The V scale is entirely different. It is strictly consecutive V0 to V17 currently and generally used for bouldering only, not roped climbing (some exceptions when there is something in the middle of a roped climb that is like a boulder problem).

And there's the French system where an 8c climb is about as hard as a 7c boulder problem. And there's the British system which nobody but British climbers understand and nobody, not even British climbers who understand it, can explain to someone who doesn't otherwise understand it. And the Germanic countries have a system and the Australians have another one. There's probably several more.

creative666

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Re: A man's man! Bigtime.
« Reply #62 on: February 09, 2024, 08:53:12 AM »
And in keeping with the title of this thread....

This is John "Vermin" Sherman, inventor of the V-scale (the V15, V17 mentioned above)
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/28b2oa/whats_the_story_behind_this_picture/

The title on the page; 'What's the Story Behind this Picture?' Clearly, he was thirsty for a beer!

grnidone

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Re: A man's man! Bigtime.
« Reply #63 on: February 09, 2024, 08:43:00 PM »
>A rating as three parts, the Roman numeral (the "grade"), the Arabic numeral before the decimal point (the "class") and the part after the decimal point (the difficulty of the hardest section of free climbing).

Thank you for this. The climbing people didn't understand how to explain it to me.

ergophobe

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Re: A man's man! Bigtime.
« Reply #64 on: February 10, 2024, 04:15:06 AM »
Not to get too down in the weeds, but
- Grade = overall length and commitment. A I is just a short little thing, a IV is a long day, a V is overnight. Only the Himalaya have Grade VII. But of course, all of this has been thrown out the window with speed climbers. The Nose on El Capitan, a Grade VI (in theory several days) has been climbed in under 2 hours.

- Class = type of climbing and is specific to rock. Class 1 is basically an easy cross-country walk. Class 3 requires hands. Class 4 is traditionally something where inexperienced people would want a rope. 5 is technical climbing. There are other systems for ice climbing (WI 1-7), mixed climbing, (M1-M??), aid climbing (A 1-5).

- rock difficulty grade. That's the 0-15c that comes after the 5.

rcjordan

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ergophobe

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Re: A man's man! Bigtime.
« Reply #66 on: November 18, 2024, 02:04:55 AM »
Somehow, I don’t think that’s going to work for me.