I've no experience with having someone else manage my projects, but I DO have a pretty well-defined list of bullet points on how I approach them myself. As with most things, the trick is in finding the point where it all balances. It's like good-fast-cheap, except with more complex choices.

My most cherished items are those that withstand long-term neglect and outright abuse.

My darkest, most dreaded, most haunting thoughts begin with "I wish I had ..."

My decision-making process usually begins with "How much is it going to cost to never have to address this issue again?" (That includes routine maintenance.)

Total cost of long-term ownership?  Current out-of-pocket?  And what's the $$ point where it gets too pricey and I'll kill or shelve the project?

On my own (physical) projects, my preferred materials are copper, stainless, aluminum, hdpe, polycarbonate, abs, epoxy, fiberglass, Corian, Swanstone, salt-treated lumber (.60+, old formula -the new stuff is crap), concrete board, silicone, & recycled rubber.

Never trust adhesives. Period.

If something advertises "Professional Grade" it isn't.

K.I.S.S. ...and simplicity will often cost more.  The best systems are those which an good mechanic in the trade can take a look and say "Oh, I see what he was doing."

Access for future maintenance is a forethought, not an afterthought.

If future access IS a problem, do the maintenance/upgrade while you have it open. Also add conduits for future use while open.

Redundancy and/or systems bypasses are good but must pass the KISS test or they're very unlikely to be used when needed.

Commodity items are the best value, but if I happen to design something useful that hinges on some cheap, replaceable part --buy a
spare now.

Beware of creeping elegance.

AS FOR COSMETICS:

I like things of beauty as much as the next guy but I don't like having to worry about it. I don't want items to own me and I find that maintaining appearances very quickly moves into that category.  So, yeah, while it bothers me if a branch scratches the paint job I don't want it to ruin the trip.

That said, things MUST be level and plumb. I can't tolerate things that "catch my eye" by being askew.

I think there are lessons there for software projects too.

>software

Yeah, the above is actually a cut-n-paste from an email I sent to a classic vehicle restoration company CEO. When I started seeking out the vehicle with the idea of having it restored by a 3rd party, I was immediately struck by the similarities to a software or site project and I ended up deliberately using my experience with choosing software -particularly open source-- to make the major decisions.

So i decided, what the hell, I'd post the email here (most of which is drawn from the construction world) and see if anyone had any other bullet points to add.

But I also figured that most here would say that 'RC shouldn't post when he drinks."

It all made perfect sense to me.

I especially liked this line:

QuoteMy decision-making process usually begins with "How much is it going to cost to never have to address this issue again?" (That includes routine maintenance.)

Put that list on a t-shirt. 

As for projects out in the bricks:

Add pvc to the materials list, though you have to be very careful with vinyl products as most of them are crap.  butyl rubber stands the test of time, too.

With occasional exception of finishing nails for certain types of trim & moulding and roofing nails for -well- roofing, I don't allow nails on the job. Use screws. Stainless w/ torx head.

No caulk applied without my approval. You should be able to finish it properly without caulk. Caulk is a crutch and a cover-up of poor skills.

I have one very capable 2-man subcontractor crew that after 7+ years of working for me have finally come to the realization that if they don't get it right I'll have them tear it out. Over the years they've also come to see that my specs tend to pay off for long-term ownership. At first, they used to look at me like I was crazy when I used stainless vs galvanized or somesuch. Now they brag to crews working for others about the materials they use.

>My decision-making process usually begins with "How much is it going to cost to never have to address this issue again?"

This is a personal observation but it seems that most residential and light commercial construction really starts to develop problems in about 7-8 years. Some things last longer, of course, but many materials and appliances are starting to fail far earlier than they used to.  Some of this (like galvanizing) is the China manufacturing & materials problem we've discussed before.  But a lot of it is a movement to cut upfront costs knowing full well that it's not going to hold up. OSB (chip) board instead of plywood would be my first example.

<added>
Here in North Carolina, labor costs typically run 55-60% of the total construction job (new construction, that is). Using plywood vs OSB doesn't take any additional labor.  Repair and maintenance work is usually an even higher percentage of labor.

I think we tend to under build things like use a 4 x 4 post when a 6x6  would be more appropriate.  The 4x4  might be fine for the first few years, but put 30 - 50 years of weather, rot, stress on it and it will not be strong enough.

There seem to be so many new materials for building now, it's hard to know which are good and which are bad.  Most of the new stuff seems flimsy.

>under build

With one notable exception, our building codes are pretty good for framing, electrical, and plumbing.  That exception is a fundamental one, though ...reliance on adhesives used in framing materials.  I've already outted OSB but 'engineered' wooden beams would give me nightmares.  But remember, our codes are literally the MINIMUM acceptable standard so the next time you hear someone say that they build everything "up to code" you should reply as follows....

Building codes are the lowest acceptable standard, the bare minimum, just enough to get by. So what you're saying is that you build UP TO the point that it's just enough to get by. That doesn't give me much confidence in your work.

Then duck.

Isn't this the plan for some? Build cheap to get the sale then include a maintenance plan to cream the money later on :p
I swear companies like Dyson (http://www.dyson.co.uk/) do this. They are renowned for innovation but break down all the time. Give me a Henry any day (http://www.numatic.co.uk/) bullet proof!

>the plan

I think most of that is driven by the consumer, not the builder. As long as it looks good they'll buy it. And they want the lowest BASE price, too. So if the mass-production builder is going to sell those units then he has to give the public what they stupidly want.

Note that I said base price.  Builders make their high margin money on change orders, options, and upgrades.

>>>>engineered wooden beams would give me nightmares

engineered wooden beams are the best thing since sliced bread but then again in the UK we over engineer everything not just to code, they give access in the centre for electric cables, copper pipes, waste pipes including 100mm soil from the toilet without compromising the integrity of the beam - a fantastic invention

http://www.timberframe.co.uk/index.php/engineered-wood/metal-web-joists/
can be manufactured up to 12 metres long and very light in weight too

have you got expanding glue in the US, absolutely fantastic product for the manufacture of stairs and fixing plywood down to timber joists, glue first then nailed using nail gun (or screwed using stainless steel screws ) and it expands to fill any voids and will never ever creak when you walk over them

Show me the glue in 30 years, Mick. Now those j-joist style beams that are built like trusses with no glue, they're OK.

<added>
Those you posted are fine.  J-joist type

Here's my stuff of nightmares

http://www.concretecottage.com/images/2008/top-floor-joists-11.jpg

Note the chipboard.

Ooops!

Is quick and cheap though.

>It's like good-fast-cheap

To quote, ummm, YOU, Pick 2.